Consulting
1) The New Baby.
2) Nutrition & Treats.
3) Hand Feeding Problems & Possible Solutions.
4) Hand Feeding.
5) Bird Training.
Bringing home your new baby parrot is very similar to bringing home a human baby. There really isn't anything difficult about the process but it has a tendency to make people nervous and apprehensive. What I would like to give you here is a few guidelines to make the experience as easy as possible on both you and the baby.
Don't Isolate The Bird
For the most part, your baby parrot will be used to interaction with
humans (mostly our family). The feeding and cleaning process involves handling
the baby, talking to the bird, and moving him/her from one area to another on a
regular basis. The minimum handling for one of our babies is three times a day.
Some of the species that we raise when very young are being fed as often as
every 2 hours. Isolating the baby would make him feel insecure. Talk to him and
keep him in an area where he will be able to see and be around the members of
what will be his new family. Introduction to the other household pets can wait
for a few days, but the members of his human flock should get to know him as
soon as possible. If the baby is still being hand fed treat him like an infant.
Cuddle and stroke him, this will reassure him that you are going to continue
treating him in a manner which he is familiar with.
For more information on the type of handling and things to be careful about
with a baby, please see the section on hand feeding. If the baby is weaned
(eating on his own) he may or may not want to be cuddled at this particular
point in time. It depends upon the individual bird's personality and how he deals with the
stress of change. If he seems to be uncomfortable with being touched, try talking
to him, offering him treats (see our suggested treat list). Allow him to
adjust at his own pace, remember that when a bird weans he must achieve a sense
of independence and self reliance in order to survive. Even a weaned baby,
after an adjustment period, will want to be handled and played with in the
manner that he has been accustomed to.
Try to imagine how you might react if you were removed from your home, put
through a variety of new experiences (car rides, plane rides, shipping cartons,
strange noises and smells) and then deposited into an environment where
everything was focused on you. Every baby reacts differently, some regress and
want to be babied; some become aggressive, asserting themselves; some withdraw
to take it all in and all possible combinations in between.
One thing I can assure you, with love, patience and the proper food they all
will make the adjustment into your home within a few days. Trust your gut
instincts when dealing with your new bird and remember that you are beginning
the relationship at this point. If you are nervous and uncomfortable, the bird
will know it, if you are patient and kind the bird will sense it and in both
cases the bird will react accordingly.
Don't Change The Diet
This doesn't mean that you can't make changes in the bird's diet if you so desire later but I strongly recommend that you do not make any diet changes for at least the first two weeks. After that diet changes should be made gradually. Please read the section on diet and follow our tried and true methods for instituting diet changes. The bird has just gone through a major change in his life and maintaining good food intake is crucial for his ability to adapt to all the new things. To risk the bird not eating because of a diet change is to risk the bird's health.
48 Hours
Most baby birds will adjust to a new environment and people in about 48
hours. Some babies seem to take everything in stride and appear to adjust right
away, while other babies adjust to the basic things in two days but take a
little longer to adjust to other factors. Every bird is different, they have
their own personality. After 48 hours if you are comfortable that the baby has
adjusted (for the most part) then I recommend that you begin the process of
teaching your bird how your house runs. It's your bird and he is going to be
part of your life so now is the time to let him know how it's going to be.
There are certain things about a bird that is natural to him, things that are
preprogrammed through instincts. Some of these things may not fit into your
lifestyle so, modifications may be called for, not only for the bird but
for you too. An understanding of the birds needs and desires will go a long way
in establishing a working system so that the both of you will be happy. These
wonderful, intelligent creatures can be the most delightful pets you will ever
own or they can turn into a bad experience. A lot is dependent on your
understanding of their nature and designing a lifestyle that works for both
of you.
I purchased my first Amazon parrot 34 years ago from the previous owner in Tucson, Arizona. It was a Double Yellow Head
Amazon, an adult that had been originally imported to the USA thru a quarantine
station. As a child I'd had parakeets and ducks and was totally mesmerized by
this new large, brightly colored parrot with flashing orange-red eyes. Boy was I in for a learning experience. From a pet shop I purchased a cage; a bag of seeds, a bag of oyster shell, and a book on parrots. They wished me well and sent me on my way. When I reflect on all that I have learned from reading books,
listening to other bird fanciers, hobbyists, breeders and avian vets since then is amazing.
Now, I have people telling me that I should write a book about training.
Soon we will start the DVD Parrot Tips and Training project.
From that initial experience I have become much more involved with birds and continue to learn on a daily basis. I now raise Amazons,
Cockatoos, African Greys, Macaws, several species of Conures and Cockatiels. What I and the avian community have learned about nutrition and diet since then has been instrumental in all of our birds living longer, healthier lives. It has also resulted in the ability to raise these wonderful creatures in sufficient numbers so that
our Arizona Parrots Bird Ranch can be counted as one of the Breeding facilities
that helps to reduce the need for taking birds from the wild so importation of parrots is no longer necessary.
In My Opinion ...
Talk to six different bird breeders and you'll get six different ideas on
what constitutes good nutrition. So please realize that what I feed my birds is
a direct result of what has proven to me, to be the formula
that works best. If something else is working for you by all means stick with
it. If you are purchasing a bird from me, I want you to keep it on the diet that
it is familiar with for a period of at least two weeks. After that you can start
the conversion process to change it over to a diet that suits your particular
situation. You can walk into any store that sells bird supplies and still find
the sunflower, corn and hot pepper mix that was the standard 36 years ago.
I feed all my birds a seed and pellet mix. My reasons for choosing that diet
are numerous and if you would like to know more email me and I will be glad to tell
you. All my birds get fresh clean water daily. I do not put vitamins in the water because I am comfortable with the vitamin supplementation in the pellets. I give fresh fruits and vegetables to the birds,
depending on the season. My favorite vegetables to feed the parrots are Yams,
Carrots, Spinach and Broccoli.
I do not feed grit/gravel and have not had any problems. The house birds
(pets) get some people food but almost no meat (it should be lean and well
cooked if it is given. We like to cook for
our birds and make wonderful rice, bean, and veggie mixes (available at
the pet store). Go ahead, spoil them, that's why we have them. My list of foods that are not good for birds follows:
| NO Avocados |
| NO Chocolate |
| NO Caffeine, (sodas or coffee) |
| NO Apple seeds |
| NO Peach pits |
| MINIMAL (as in a little doesn't hurt) salt, sugar or fat |
Now having been in the bird business for over 36 years, I have heard all the stories; the birds eat chocolate, drink coffee, beer or other alcoholic beverages, etc. but it is my opinion that
bird owners should not allow this to happen. I don't oppose giving birds a little bit of Sunflower seeds or peanuts as a treat
or reward, but I only give them as a treat since I want them to have pellets
and seeds as the main diet. If there is a special treat that your bird likes, use it as a reward for good behavior. Things that my birds are very fond of are: apples,
sweet potatoes, corn, broccoli, carrots, hard boiled eggs (chopped up very finely with the shell), a bit of toast with peanut butter.
Food not being digested
This can be caused by improperly mixed food, lack of bacteria in the crop, food fed too hot or cold, yeast infections and the baby being kept too cool. Try feeding a small amount of baby applesauce and water. If this helps at the next feeding add either bird Bene-Bac (bacteria available from pet stores, vets and vet supply houses) or if in a pinch, plain unflavored modified live culture yogurt to the food. If the problem can't be resolved by you within 8 hours
CALL YOUR VETERINARIAN
Food digesting too fast
This is usually caused by the food being too watery. You can confirm this by checking the papers at the bottom of the babies' box. If the paper is very wet then you need to mix the food a little bit thicker. If the paper is not very wet then the baby may need to be fed more often. Sometimes this happens when the feeder is not completely filling the crop or the baby is gulping air with the food. Fill the crop so that it is full with only a small air bubble or no air bubble at the top. The crop is like a water balloon; you want it to be full and firm but not tight. Because the formula is mixed with water if you overfill the crop it will back up and then flow down into the lungs. You do not want that to happen.
Foul smell coming from the baby's crop
This can be sour crop - CALL YOUR VETERINARIAN
Foul smell coming from the baby's droppings in the tank
Let's face it baby droppings smell like droppings, but an unusually acrid smell can be the sign of a digestive problem forming. Sometimes adding a little plain yogurt to the baby food can right this. If it persists
CALL YOUR VETERINARIAN
Regurgitation
If the baby is very full (the stage right before too full) they will regurgitate some food so they are more comfortable. Sometimes older babies will regurgitate a little bit of food to taste it. Any other reason for regurgitation is very very serious. Serious regurgitation will dehydrate a baby very quickly please
CALL YOUR VETERINARIAN.
Baby isn't interested in eating
If the baby seems alert and happy and has been digesting his food normally this can be a sign that it's time to decrease the feeding schedule by one feeding. This is a normal part of the weaning process.
It could also be a sign that the formula is not hot enough.
Hand Feeding Checklist
Always check the food temperature. If you have a digital thermometer, formula temperature should be between 105 and 110 degrees F. If you are interrupted during a feeding or use the microwave to heat the food be sure to stir the food thoroughly and then check the temperature. Never save food for the next feeding, mixed food goes bad in two hours. Try to mix only what you need for each feeding. Throw away any leftover food and thoroughly wash out the feeding cup and the feeding syringe. Hand feeding formula is an ideal medium for growing all sorts of bacteria and fungus. I use a good antibacterial soap and a human baby nipple brush and scrub. Be sure to also clean the area under the rubber stopper on the syringe plunger. After you think you've got it clean hold it up to the light. Always rinse very well since feeding antibacterial soap to a baby isn't a good idea either.
Please remember that this is a simple help page and the intent is to help people have healthy, happy, baby birds.
Hand feeding is the process used by bird breeders to feed a baby bird in a manner that replaces the parent bird's regurgitation of food into the un-weaned baby's crop. It has allowed us to achieve the raising of a very tame and trainable bird because the baby bird is very accustomed to being handled and interacted with by humans before the weaning stage. Most babies that are hand fed are "pulled" or removed from the parent's nest at approximately 3 weeks of age although some birds are actually hatched in an incubator and fed from day-one by their human parents.
The technique of hand feeding varies from breeder to breeder mostly depending upon their personal preference, skill level, how much time they want to spend with the bird and whom they learned from. It is not a difficult process but it is definitely one best learned "hands on". I would not recommend anyone to undertake hand feeding a baby bird based on learning from a book alone. Hand feeding is not necessarily a process that is reserved for only a professional. When you hand feed a baby bird there is a definite bonding relationship that develops between the
human feeder and the baby parrot. This is something that a lot of people want to experience. I have taught
hundreds of people to hand feed their own bird over the years with great results. Everyone had to come in and "feed" several birds with me, to not only learn the process, but to also get to know
the baby feeding responses and when a crop is properly full of food. A baby bird grows at such an amazing rate that the hand feeding, if not done properly can result in a undernourished and sickly baby.
If overfed or fed improperly the baby can aspirate food into the lungs and die. If food is fed too cold the crop can chill and stop processing the food and the baby will starve to death even with a full crop. If the food is fed too hot the baby may still eat it and the result can be a scalded crop requiring veterinary attention, antibiotics, and may die. If the food is not properly mixed the baby may be starved slowly resulting in malformations and stunted growth. If the food is mixed too thick the baby bird will process out the water needed and leave a thickened mass of
indigestible food (marble) in the crop and the crop should be massaged, and may
require a Vet visit to resolve the problem. If the feeding equipment is not properly cleaned and handled, bacteria, yeast and fungi may be "fed" to the baby resulting in a sick bird,
Vet expenses and possibly a dead baby. If you have never fed a baby bird before, I hope that at this point you realize that reading and "winging" it is not a good idea. The hand feeding process does create a bond
unlike any other and if you want to experience this I recommend that you learn
hands-on from someone like myself.
If you don't want to or don't have the time
for hand feeding a baby bird you should buy one that is weaned. You can still receive
a very tame and trainable bird. The process of bond-building will start when you
take the baby into your home as a pet. The baby will not be permanently bonded
to me, once I am out of the picture and you become the primary caregiver and
"flock" member the bird will develop a relationship with you. Even an
experienced hand feeder can run into problems. If you are hand feeding and are
having a problem please see the section on Hand Feeding Problems. If none of
these address your particular problem please consult an avian Vet. There is a
very small period of time to work with when you are dealing with a hand feeding
baby this is not the time for a lengthy "wait and see".
Once upon a time when wild import birds were all that we had to
choose from bird training consisted of teaching a few basic things like
“stepping up” onto your hand, or a perch without the bird biting and speech
mimicry. Some would teach their birds to “kiss” or to ride on their
shoulders.
Interesting to note here that riding on shoulders is not only
easily taught but I would not call it a trick at all since 9 out of 10
birds will learn it by accident and prefer it to sitting on your hand. In
fact, the trick is how you get him off your shoulder, show me that trick!
(smile)
So, a quick answer to that for the newest of Parrot owners it to
get a large towel and put it around the top of your head. Then slowly drop
it down to your shoulders to remove the bird from your shoulders. This is
really only for the people who feel that they are not yet in control of there
pet parrot and leaving him on your shoulder might result in a surprise bite to the ear.
I always tell people to first totally understand a pet parrots temperament
before allowing it to stay on your shoulder.
With the advent of domestically raised hand-fed babies; bird training
now encompasses everything from the simple basics, to teaching birds to lay on
their backs, play dead and roll over on command. Some birds can identify objects, colors
and
materials. Speech training has progressed from mere mimicry to a real form of
communication between a bird and it’s human trainer.
It only takes a short period of ownership before most people realize the intelligence of these creatures. They are capable of learning
almost anything. The motivation has been for them to want to learn something and enjoy doing it.
Positive reinforcement is the attention, praise and food reward that they receive for their performance. There are numerous books and training videos available that can teach you on a step-by-step basis how to train your bird to do a variety of “tricks”. I will not attempt to duplicate them here.
A baby parrot is very much like a child in that during their life they go through several stages or phases that can produce behavior that is not acceptable to you. As you work through these times it is important to know that usually this is just a stage
they are going through. Some bad habits are actually taught to and reinforced by people who do not understand how their bird thinks. A basic understanding of
how your bird thinks is one of the most important things to training your bird.
It’s real easy to make a sweet baby bird the center of your world but when schedules change or the inevitable newness of the pet wears off the bird does not understand why it is no longer the center of attention. Behavior problems like screaming and excessive destruction can follow. It is much better to teach the baby that there are times for play with you and there are times for playing on a playpen/play area, by itself
and there are times that will be spent in the cage.
The most common complaint that I hear from people is the one that goes “As soon as I get home from work my bird starts screaming and I just can’t stand it.” Some resort to yelling at the bird, squirting it with water, covering it up, or giving it something to eat (this is a very bad thing to get started). Keep in mind always that negative attention is still a form of attention. What I suggest is a compromise for this type of a situation. Everyone when they get home has a list of things to do but
remember that while you have been at work for 8 hours your bird has been in his cage doing his thing too and after 8 hours he is pretty tired of it.
When you arrive home your parrot will wants you to give him some attention and
to do something different.
If you are in the house and not responding to him he will remind you vocally that he is there and is in need (very much like a child). If you will take a few minutes after you get
home, take him out of his cage and tell him what a lousy or great day you’ve just had (this may be a good
way for you to relax too). Give him some attention (depending on what
your bird likes) then put him on an open play area where he can see what you are
doing. If you like you can give him a food treat at this time
(This is different than giving him food to shut him up). Make sure that his play
area has toys to play with; especially good for this are the toys that you can
put a treat into so that he has to work to get it out. Then at this point you
should be able to go about getting your things done and he should be occupied
and content. Keep in mind that breaking an already established bad habit does
take longer that setting up a good behavior pattern.
The next common complaint is biting. Biting should never be tolerated. How
you deal with a biting bird is directly related to: how, why and the location of the
biting. Never smack, beat or strike a bird. Some say that when a bird
bites they will twist his beak to make it uncomfortable for him, this is
done as he bites so that it is not an act of retaliation but more of an
extension of his action. They say that it usually does not take more than a few twists for it
to sink through even the toughest birdbrains. Arizona Parrots
believes that it will not help to
make the bird afraid of you. Biting can be a parrots
normal reaction to fear. What I have found to be the best is to assume that the bird bite was caused
by something I did wrong. Usually by changing the way that I handle the
bird ... for example: I can handle and pet the bird only with a towel, instead of my hands. I have removed any chances for a
bite to happen again. I will continue the towel use until the bird and I understand each other better.
Arizona Parrots asks you to always respect your pet parrot and treat it
with kindness. In return you will have a loving pet for up to 80 years !!!
Please remember that this is a simple help page and the intent is to help people have healthy, happy,
parrots companions.
Arizona Parrots, Tucson
AZ
PH#520-298-0379 |
